Hookin’…the legal way! Part 2

Welcome!! I am so excited you are joining us for the second part of Hookin’…the legal way! If you missed part 1 of the series, click HERE.  Today, we have Sara from My Merry Messy Life showing us how to increase and decrease stitches.

These amazing shops are sponsoring Hookin’…the legal way. Check out their Etsy shops (Living In Amethyst and Two Girls Patterns) for some seriously amazing patterns and make sure to check back at the end where one lucky reader will be winning patterns from their shops! I know right!? I made this skirt and these slippers using these ladies’ patterns! So cute!!

Take it away, Sara!!:)

Hi there! I’m Sara and today I’m visiting you from over at My Merry Messy Life where I share my own free crochet patterns and share my passion for green living, motherhood, and children. The lovely Katie, your blogstress (I just made up a word!), has graciously asked me to write about increasing and decreasing in crochet today!

Increasing the Round
First, let’s start with increasing. This is a crochet technique that is used to make the width of your project wider. A project is made longer by adding more rows, but it is made wider by adding increasing stitches. An increasing stitch is simply two of the same stitch in one space. So, for example, I have chosen to use working in the round (see my post on that here) as my example for you, because it is one of the most common projects in which there are increasing stitches. Working in the round is one of the most important techniques to master in crochet as you can make hats, flowers, dolls, clothes and more. See my website for lots of hat and flower patterns!

Photo #1 – Chain 3, slip stitch to form a ring. Chain 2, 11 double crochet in the ring (for a total of 12 double crochet)

Photo #2 – This is an increasing round where we work 2 double crochet stitches into each space.

Photo #3 – Shows the completed round 2 which is an increasing round.

Photo #4 – This is another increasing round, but different from round 2. Chain 2, double crochet in the same space (so it looks like 2 double crochets have been worked). Now work just 1 double crochet in the next stitch. 2 double crochets in the next. 1 in the next. Repeat the 2, 1 pattern all the way around.

Photo #5 – Shows the almost finished round 3.

If you continued this circle, you would typically add one increasing stitch (2 of the same stitch, in this case, a double crochet) one time less each round. So, round 4 would be: 2 DC, 1DC, 1DC. Round 5: 2 DC, 1DC, 1DC, 1DC

Single Crochet Decrease

Now let’s move on to decreasing. Decreasing is important to learn in order to make things like ear flaps on a winter hat and clothing. There are different techniques for both single, half double and double crochet, and I have a photo tutorial for each of them for you! In each example, we’re going to make a triangle together. So, come follow along!

Photo #1 – Chain 12. In the 2nd chain from the hook, work a single crochet. Work 1 single crochet in each stitch all the way down.
Row 2 – Chain 1. (We’re going to begin a decreasing stitch. You’re going to start the single crochet but not complete it the same way.) So, insert your hook into the first space and pull up a loop. There should be two loops on your hook

Photos #2 to #3 – Leave the two loops on the hook and insert the hook into the next space and pull up a loop. There are now 3 loops on your hook.

Photo #4 – Yarn over, and pull through the first two loops. There are two loops remaining.

Photo #5 – Yarn over, and pull through the last two loops. Finished! See how there is only one space now for two stitches?

If you continue, the rest of row 2 will be to single crochet in the next 6 stitches, then work another decrease in the last two. (8 total stitches)

Row 3: Chain 1. Work a decrease in the next 2 stitches, work a single crochet in the next 4 stitches, then work a decrease with the last two stitches. (6 total stitches)

Row 4: Chain 1. Work a decrease in the next 2 stitches, work 1 single crochet in the next stitch, work a decrease in the last two stitches. (4 total stitches)

Row 5: Chain 1. Work a decrease in the next 2 stitches, work 1 single crochet in the last stitch. (2 total stitches)

Row 6: Chain 1. Work a decrease in the last 2 stitches to complete!

Half Double Crochet Decrease

Photo #1 – Chain 12. In the 2nd chain from the hook, work a half double crochet. Work 1 half double crochet in each stitch all the way down. (10 half double crochet total)
Row 2 – Chain 1. (We’re going to begin a decreasing stitch. You’re going to start the half double crochet but not complete it the same way.) So, yarn over and insert your hook into the first space and pull up a loop. There should be 3 loops on your hook

Photo #2 – Leave the 3 loops on the hook, yarn over and insert the hook into the next space.

Photo #3 –  Now pull up a loop. There are now 5 loops on the hook.

Photo #4 – Yarn over, and pull through the first 3 loops. There are 3 loops remaining.

Photo #5 – Yarn over, and pull through the last 3 loops.

If you continue, the rest of row 2 will be to half double crochet in the next 6 stitches, then work another decrease in the last two. (8 total stitches)

Row 3: Chain 1. Work a decrease in the next 2 stitches, work a half double crochet in the next 4 stitches, then work a decrease with the last two stitches. (6 total stitches)

Row 4: Chain 1. Work a decrease in the next 2 stitches, work 1 half double crochet in the next stitch, work a decrease in the last two stitches. (4 total stitches)

Row 5: Chain 1. Work a decrease in the next 2 stitches, work 1 half double crochet in the last stitch. (2 total stitches)

Row 6: Chain 1. Work a decrease in the last 2 stitches to complete!

Double Crochet Decrease

Photo #1 – Chain 13. In the 3rd chain from the hook, work a double crochet. Work 1 double crochet in each stitch all the way down. (10 double crochet total)

Row 2 – Chain 2. (We’re going to begin a decreasing stitch. You’re going to start the double crochet but not complete it the same way.) So, yarn over and insert your hook into the first space and pull up a loop. There should be 3 loops on your hook

Photo #2 – Yarn over and pull that loop through the 3 loops. There are now two loops remaining.

Photo #3 –  Yarn over, and insert the hook into the next space and pull up a loop. There are now 4 loops on the hook.

Photo #4 – Yarn over, and pull through the first 2 loops. There are 3 loops remaining.

Photo #5 – Yarn over, and pull through the last 3 loops.

If you continue, the rest of row 2 will be to double crochet in the next 6 stitches, then work another decrease in the last two. (8 total stitches)

Row 3: Chain 1. Work a decrease in the next 2 stitches, work a double crochet in the next 4 stitches, then work a decrease with the last two stitches. (6 total stitches)

Row 4: Chain 1. Work a decrease in the next 2 stitches, work 1 double in the next stitch, work a decrease in the last two stitches. (4 total stitches)

Row 5: Chain 1. Work a decrease in the next 2 stitches, work 1 double crochet in the last stitch. (2 total stitches)
Row 6: Chain 1. Work a decrease in the last 2 stitches to complete!

Merry Crocheting!

 Be sure to stop back next week where Lauren from Tutus and Tea Parties will show us how to change colors and finish off a project.

Crochet Chevron Afghan

Crochet Chevron Afghan

 

I have gotten several emails that people weren’t finding the patterns so I pasted it below with my changes.

Row 1: With white, ch 183. (To make bigger work in multiples of 14)
Row 2:Dc in second st from hook, * Dc in each of next 14 ch, 3 dc in next ch, dc in each of next 14 ch, sk 1 ch, repeat from * across, ending with the sk 1 st, dc in last st, ch 2, turn.
Row 3: Working in back lp of sts Throughout, dc in first dc, sk 1 dc, * dc in each of next 14 dcs, 3 dc in next dc, dc in each of next 14 sts, sk 2 sts, repeat from * across, ending last repeat with sk 1 st, dc in last st, ch 2, turn.

Repeat row 3 throughout, working 8 more rows white, 10 rows of next color, 10 rows next color, 10 rows starting color, 10 rows second color, etc

Have you ever started a project and then once you realize how much time it is really going to take, you kind of wish you wouldn’t have??? That was totally how I felt with this crocheted chevron afghan. While I love it, and I am glad I completed it, it will be a LONG time before I do another!! I found a pattern for this on Pinterest and had to make it! I loved the colors she used, but I wanted to use the grey instead of the red since I am on a grey and yellow kick right now;) There are a few mistakes, but I am totally over it. I was not about to rip it out and start over! It’s only for us so I am fine with it.

My grandmother would be so proud of me!! She used to make these all the time for family members, and I do not have a clue why anyone would do more than one ever in their life time:) They take forever!! Definitely worth it, but wow! Maybe IF I do another, I will do it in the winter time because having this heavy blanket on me while completing each row is very warm!! The hubs loves it and used it last night and it covers him up (he’s 6’2″) so that’s probably why it took so long. I wanted to be sure that it would fit on him because all of our blankets only go so far on him and it’s a bit annoying because then he hoards all of the blankets!! 🙂

What do you think? You like??

Crochet Basket{Tutorial}

You like my new basket??

I saw this basket over on Pinterest and fell in love!

I mean, how you could you not, it’s fantastic!! I started making it, but then I changed halfway through…deciding to do a half double crochet and double crochet in spots rather than just the single crochet all the way through. You can see her pattern here and follow that, or you can stick around here and I’ll show you what I used as mine;)

I used two skeins of yarn and double strands instead of four strands. Mostly because I didn’t have two skeins of each color, but also because I couldn’t find my bigger crochet hook…LOL whatever, Make do with what you have right? Using hdc and dc make it go by faster too since a “sc” stitch gives a shorter row.

2 skeins (I used white and grey)
Size K Crochet hook

Starting out using her pattern, I followed it for the bottom part.

I copied that part of the pattern here to keep it all in one place for you.

Ch 3

Rnd 1: 7 hdc in 3rd ch from hook. Join with sl st (8 hdc)

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st. Join with sl st. (16 hdc)

Rnd 3: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next st, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st) around. Join with sl st. (24 hdc)

Rnd 4: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 2 sts, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st) around. Join with sl st. (32 hdc)

Rnd 5: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 3 sts, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts) around. Join with sl st. (40 hdc)

Rnd 6: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 4 sts, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts) around. Join with sl st. (48 hdc)

Rnd 7: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 5 sts, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts) around. Join. (56 hdc)

Rnd 8: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 6 sts, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 6 sts) around. Join. (64 hdc)

Rnd 9: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 7 sts, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 7 sts) around. Join. (72 hdc)

The next round will be the first row of the body of the basket. You will be working into the back of each hdc.

Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc under the line or ridge on the back of the first st of previous round. (Hdc have a line or ridge on the back of the stitch). You will be working under this line or ridge, not into the regular loops. Creating a seam separating the bottom and the sides of the basket. Continue working sc around. Join with sl st.

Rnd 11: (Here is where it changes) Ch 2, dc in each st all the way around. Join.

Rnd 12-13: Ch 2, dc in each st around. Join.

Rnd 14: Join white yarn. Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join.

Rnd 15: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join.

Rnd 16: Join grey yarn. Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join

Rnd 17-18: Ch 2, hdc in each st around. Join

Rnd 19: Join white yarn. Ch 2, hdc in each. Join

Rnd 20-24: Ch 2, hdc in each. Join.

Rnd 25: Join grey yarn. Ch 1, sc in next 13 sts. Ch 10. Skip 10 sts and then sc into 11th st.  Sc in next 25 sts. Ch 10. Skip 10 sts and then sc into 11th st. Sc in remaining 12 sts and join.

Rnd 26: Ch 1, sc in each st until you get to the chain (handle) part. Going around the chain, sc over it 12 times. Continue with sc throughout sts and repeat the 12 sc’s on the second chain section (handle). Sc on following sts. Join

Rnd 27: Ch 1, sc in each st around.

Finish off and weave in ends. all done!! Super cute. I plan on putting mine in the car so that I have a place for all of Miss M’s toys during car trips.

Let me know what you think!

Newborn brimmed hat {Free Pattern}

Newborn brimmed hat {Free Pattern}

I hope everyone had a great weekend. We got a lot done around here and it was nice to be able to spend some time with the family. Miss M is finally feeling better so she went back to school today, which means I got some lovely quiet time around the house today! Hooray!!

Abbreviations used:
ch-chain
hdc-half double crochet
dc-double crochet
sl st-slip stitch
st or sts – stitch(es)

For this hat I used Red Heart Yarn and used a double strand pulling from each end with an H Hook. That hat will fit a newborn. If you need to make it bigger, simply add an increase row after row 4 until you reach the desired circumference, and then dc in each stitch down.

Here we go!

1. Create a magic ring.
2. Ch2, dc 8 in ring. sl st
3. Ch 2, 2dc in each st. sl st
4. Ch 2, *1 dc, 2dc in next* repeat to end. sl st
5. Ch 2, 1 dc in each, sl st.
6-8 Repeat row 5.
9. ch 2, 1 hdc in each, sl st.
10. fold hat in half with the seam in the back…where your hook is.
11. from middle of the front, count left 8 sts. place st marker in next to left, then count 16 to the right. place st marker in 17th st so you know where to stop your brim
12. finish off from the back and weave in tail
13. pull up loop next to the left stitch marker. ch 2, dc in each to right before st marker
14. ch 2, dc2tog, dc in each to last 2 sts, dc2tog.
15. change colors, pull up loop sc around the entire brim and base of hat. finish off and weave in tail
Strap:
1. Ch 25.
2. Ch 2, dc in each. ch 1 and sc around edge of last dc. Finish off and leave a long tail to sew onto hat.

Add a button on each side if you would like and you are finished!!

Below are some pictures to help explain where to put the stitch markers.

Row 10

Row 11

Row 11

I hope the pictures help! Let me know if you have any questions!!

Baby Football Beanie {Tutorial}

Baby Football Beanie {Tutorial}

I just love this beanie! I have seen them floating around on Pinterest from different places and I had to try it out! I am very pleased with the end result. And the best part..I am going to share with you how I did it.

Materials Needed:
Main Color (MC)-Brown yarn (I used Red Heart)
White yarn (I used Red Heart)
H-sized crochet hook
yarn needle

Abbreviations used:
MC-Master Color (in this case, brown)
ch-chain
dc-double crochet
st-stitch
sl st-slip stitch

**Note: I don’t know if this is the proper way, but when I switch colors, all I do its make a slip knot on the hook with the new color and start chaining. Then after I finish that row, I cut the previous color and tie it off on the inside to the beginning tail of the new color.

**The size used here is for an infant and would fit 0-3 months.

Row 1-Using MC, make a magic circle. Ch 3, 5 dc in ring. Sl st to join
Row 2- Ch 3, dc in same st as the ch. 2 dc in each st. Sl st to join
Row 3 – Ch 3. *2 dc in 1st st, 1 dc in next* repeat from * to end of row. Sl st to join
Row 4- Ch 3. *2 dc in 1st st, 1 dc in next 2 sts* repeat from * to end of row. Sl st to join
Row 5 (CHANGE to white) – Ch 3, dc in each st. Sl st to join
Row 6 (CHANGE back to MC) -Ch 3, dc in each st. Sl st to join
Row 7-9 – Ch 3, dc in each st. Sl st to join
Row 10 (CHANGE to white) – Ch 3, dc in each st. Sl st to join
Row 11 (CHANGE back to MC) – Ch 3, dc in each st. Sl st to join. Finish off by weaving in tail.

Laces:

The laces part is super easy. Take your yarn needle and thread it with the white yarn. *Make sure you have at least 15 inches to work with. I know it sounds like a lot, but that way you can pull it through without having to worry about it getting too tangled up. The shorter the string I used, the harder it was to make it look smooth.*

I have noted in the picture what number corresponds to where I am talking about.

1. Find the center front of your beanie. From the center, in row 6 (where you changed back to brown), count over three and place your yarn needle in from inside. Pull that through and count over 6 dc’s. Go back in after the 6th dc.

2. From the inside, go to the middle of the hat again,(between 3 and 4) and go down 1 dc pulling the yarn through from inside to out and back in.

3. For this, you will do the same as in step 1, only this time,  you are only using 4 dc’s to go around.

4. Go down as you did in Step 2

5. Go back out to 6 stitches and repeat as you did in step 1.

I hope you enjoy making this hat! As always, your comments and questions are always welcomed! Thank you for stopping by!